It's Holiday Party Time and
Time for Makeover Magic!

Read on for one great Holiday look this year!

The Subtle Sexy Look is a classic.
It never goes out of style and everyone can wear it.
My techniques are easy to follow and are easy for every
skin tone and face shape.

We love Subtle Sexy - the idea is to glam up without going over the top. It's great for Holiday Parties when you want a change
from your everyday makeup.
Who wants to show up at the office party looking like you're at the office! Here's the story on how to vavoom your makeup up and create real chatter at the water cooler!

Step One: Start with the ultimate skin/makeup prep. Dermanew! Dermanew is our hand held Microdermabrasion Machine that polishes the skin with out leaving any redness or irritation. It leaves a glowing effect. One that is ready to accept makeup perfectly allowing it to go onto the skin smoother than ever before. We use it before our Bridal Makeup Applications at MakeUpMania NY store. When I'm going out to a major event - I always use it right before I shower.

Step Two: Using your makeup sponge - apply a lightweight moisturizer. I use a very light application of Anna Carera's Sensitive Creme. It is perfect for all skin types and even though it a cream it applies light weight and is a perfect pre-makeup moisturizer. Let the moisturizer settle into the skin for a few minutes. Apply a pretty heavy layer of Apookalps Lip Nourishment and let it remain on the lips for the duration of the makeover.

Step Three: My favorite, favorite foundation right now is Bio-Fond by Gerda Spillmann. I use it with water and it creates the most beautiful finish. And because you are using it wet - it works with undertones so you don't have to worry about it matching your skin as perfectly as you would with a foundation like RCMA. I put a little bit of water in the top of the compact and get my sponge a little wet. Then work the foundation into the sponge and dab a little bit of water onto the sponge again. Apply to the face with downward strokes from top to bottom. Blend out to the right coverage you want. Sheer, in the areas that you want to see your real skin through and stipple (lightly tapping the sponge onto the same area repeatedly) a little heavier where you want the coverage. You will see the way the Gerda Spillmann works with the water and it is completely workable after it dries. If you want to thin it out - dip your sponge in a little water and blend it out more. Or if you need more coverage dip your sponge in to the Gerda Spillman and stipple on a little more coverage. This is why I just LOVE Gerda Spillman - it's abilty to keep working until you are satisfied and then the absolute beautiful natural coverage it gives. Just gorgeous!

Step Four: For discolorations on the face or under the eye - use a Camouflage Brush. The Camouflage #6 Pointed is good. Use the Gerda Spillman wet again and cover the discoloration. Use a little tapping motion with the brush on top of the discoloration to keep the coverage and give the heavier makeup skin texture. Add makeup or blend out with water if necessary. If you require more coverage for discolorations - you should move into a heavier concealer.
When you are covering an eye discoloration remember to use as little makeup as possible because it settles onto the soft tissue under the eye which is different than the rest of the face. Lots of MUArtists go in and just put it all over underneath the eye. You don't need to, just put it exactly where the discoloration is. Like this:

discoloration before _______concealer wrong________concealer correct
_____________________

Usually I use RCMA as a concealer - match your skin tone exactly and apply to the discoloration only. Blend out so it looks smooth - but do not lose the coverage you have applied. Then cover lightly with a very sheer veil of your Gerda Spilmann foundation to bring the two products together and look more natural. For powdering under the eye - I rarely use regular powder - instead I use the Chinese Rice Powder in White. It has a super fine mill and it brightens the eye area. I use the Squirrel Mini Crease Brush and charge it up with the Rice Powder. Gently ROLL the brush under the eye to release a very light amount of the powder. Brush off excess. You can also use this powder for the eyelid.

Step Five: If you have very light skin - you can use the Rice Powder on the rest of your face too. Since the beautiful thing about the Gerda Spillmann is the natural coverage - you don't want to Matte it out too much - so apply the powder with the Squirrel #37 Medium Powder Brush instead of a powder puff. When I am working with heavier foundations such as RCMA, Tuttle, Visiora or Cinema Secrets I like to work with a powder puff because it really sets the makeup. But with Gerda Spillmann - I have found that I like a light powder - it gets too heavy looking of you over powder it. If you are very oily - you may need to use the powder puff method anyway. Apply powder lightly all over the face.

Step Six: The Brows. The eyebrows frame the eye and the classic brow is always in style. Brows are so important that I know MUArtists that lecture JUST on brows. Needless to say - we don't have time for a full lesson on brows here - but the idea of the proper brow is shown below:

________a__c___b__________

Marking the Brow is the first step to getting you brows into shape. Use a straight edge like a long eye pencil. Hold the pencil vertical from the center of the nostril - not the outside of the corner! Some girls' noses are too wide for that - but the center of the nostril works every time. Line the pencil straight up past the brow. Mark it with the pencil where it meets the brow area. (a). This where the brow should begin.
Hold the pencil vertical and let it pass the outside of the iris - past the brow. (b) This is where the height of the arch should be.
Hold the pencil perpendicular across the outside corner of the nose. Let it pass the outside corner of the eye and then past the brow. (c) This is where the brow should end. As you can see - according to our measurements - our model's arch is too far out. This can be easily corrected.
Now that the brow is marked - use the Professional Taupe Pencil and keep it very sharp. You may need to sharpen it five or more times for each brow. Use tiny little hair like strokes. Like this:

The hair like strokes should have a tapered end. As you can see in the picture above, the hair like strokes should mimic the natural growth pattern of the hair. It takes practice - but it looks real when you are finished. After you have designed, corrected and filled in your brows using this technique - take a Brow Brush and comb through the brow to soften the pencil you just applied. Use La Femme's Dark Brown Eyeshadow (or Taupe or other appropriate color) and a Mini Brow Brush to apply a little powder smoothly all through the brow in the direction of the hair growth. Make sure the end of the brow is thin and tapered and has a lift upward rather than downward so as not to drag the eye area down.

Step Seven: On to the eyes! This step is important! You want your eyes to look sexy and dramatic - but still natural. Here's the trick: Use the Professional Taupe Pencil (yep - it's a handy little pencil!). Looking straight into the mirror- with your eyes open - mark the crease (if you can see it with your eyes open) - or just above the crease (if you can't see it with your eyes open.) Now that it is marked - go ahead and draw the crease in with the Taupe Pencil. Take it in toward the nose and drop it smoothly to the inside corner of the eye. Let the crease end on the outside corner higher than the natural crease line. Like This:

normal crease "before" eye_____eye with hidden crease "before"
_______________

normal crease adding taupe pencil ___e hidden crease edding taupe pencil
______________

(See how you can cheat the depth of the crease in by marking it with the eye open! It lets you see really where that crease needs to be when the eye is open. And it helps to "lift" the eye.) Now take your Camouflage Pointed #6 Brush and blend out the Taupe Pencil. You should blend it so it looks like a natural shadow and so it does not look like not makeup. Be careful not to blend the pencil away - there is a fine line between making it a shadow and blending it completely off.
After you have created the perfect "shadow" with the Professional Taupe Pencil, dust it with the White Chinese Rice Powder using the Squirrel Mini Crease Brush. This technique contributes to what I mean sexy yet natural - the shape of the shadow is now designed in a very natural way. Now to glam it up a bit...
I use the new World Girl 2001 A.D. Quads all the time - for this look I especially love Alchemy 1000 A.D. But Rock-N-Roll 1954 A.D. is really cool for the blue smoky look that is in right now! For this demo - I will exemplify the color story with Alchemy 1000 A.D. - but you can recreate with light, dark and medium tones in Rock-N-Roll 1954 A.D.. On top of the natural shadow that you made with Taupe Pencil - lightly apply Transmutation from the Alchemy 1000 A.D. Quad. Use a very soft brush like the Synthetic Medium Oval and blend off perfectly. By that, I mean the intensity of the color of the shadow should be darkest on the lid and as you blend if off it should go less dark, less dark, less dark, less dark - then to skin tone. Also remember to blend in the direction of the shape you want. For example - for a slight cat eye effect - blend evenly off in the direction of the tail of the cat eye. Don't go back and forth or up and down - just the same stroke in the direction you want the eye shadow to be. This gives the eye make up a very clean and polished look. You may decide to Crucible on the brow bone - but only if you have a normal eye. If you have a heavy brow bone - do not apply a light shadow there - instead use Flux. A light shadow will draw attention to a heavy brow bone.

Add Goldmaker to the center of the eyelid and blend it evenly on the ball of the eye.

Use the LaFemme Black Matte Cake Eyeliner and with the Taklon Pointed Definer Brush - paint on an "Italian Eyeline". The Italian Eyeline has a little lift on the end of the eyeline. To achieve this - lift the brush off the skin as you end the eyeline - that will give you that beautiful perfect point at the end. Like this:

Curl you lashes. Important Ladies - It gives the eye an open and vibrant effect and it works well with the false lashes we will be applying later.
Use the Lashpro Eyelash Curler. It is the best on the market and I strongly suggest using the "step out " method of curling for best results. See Lashpro on our website for details on this method. Especially for the straight - very straight lashes! Apply one coat of LaFemme Black Cake Mascara. I don't use the brush that comes with the Cake Mascara - I prefer the Deluxe Spooly Mascara Brush.

Step Eight: For cheek color application, use the Squirrel #37 Medium Powder Brush. I know it says it's a Powder Brush - but I call it my Diva Brush. I use it all the time and it is the perfect blush brush - it is so soft and light that it picks up very little color and delivers very little color. This is how blush should be worn now. Just a hint of color to help define the bones - but it shouldn't look like blush. Apply a cheek color like LaFemme's Peach Sparkle (I have used this many times with great success on many skin tones.) Apply it lightly just under the cheek bone in small/ light upward strokes - not very going very far up - just slightly up and over the bone and following the underside of the cheekbone at the same time. Do not bring the cheek color too far forward or it will make the face look flat or pinched in. I use the outside corner of the iris of the eye as a visual stop point. Now using the Squirrel #7 Fan Brush apply a little of what I call "high color". It can be the same color you use under the cheek bone or a brighter color like La Femme's Brick Red or Coral. Since the Fan Brush is so delicate, you can use brighter colors than you would normally use to add a natural flush to the face. In a light down motion - just hit the height of the cheekbone or the apple of the cheek.

Step Nine: Lips. The look now is glossy - but gloss does not define the lips. At MakeUpMania NY - I have used a method that is going over like wildfire and here's the secret:
First apply a lip pencil two shades darker than your natural lip color. I like World Girl Nutmeg and Rubis (This is for the Subtle Sexy look. During the day - match your lip color with something like World Girl Cameo or Dream.) Line your lips as you normally do. If you like to make your lips appear fuller, I suggest not going outside of the lip line except in one area. This area is shown below:

Enlarging this area by pushing the pencil up and just out of the natural lip line - makes the lips looks fuller, plumper and larger without looking like you have drawn a line on the face. And it will not give you the double line effect drawing outside the lip line tends to do.
Now fill in your lips with the pencil. Remember we put the Apookalips on at the beginning of the makeover so now the are healed of any dryness and ready so let the pencil glide on smoothly.
After you have the lip completely filled in with the lip pencil, apply a very light coat of Star Crazy Lip Gloss. For a warm glowy look use Star Crazy's The Girl's Room. And for a cool icy look use Radio Iodine. I also like Star 69 for this look. Use a good lip brush like the Chisel Sable Lip Brush and do not charge it too full of lip gloss. Apply a thin even coat all over the lips. Now the lip is glossy - which is very much in fashion - but your lip is defined - which glosses alone don't do.

Step Ten : Apply False Eyelashes. La Femme False Eyelashes - Fine (natural yet luxurious) in Black (Of Course!) Applying False Lashes is do-able. Most of the time I have noticed that women are intimidated by false lashes and I see that they have problems with them because they are not fitting the eye properly. Or the glue is inferior or placed on the false lash wrong. So just make sure you trim them appropriately so they fit, use a good quality eyelash adhesive and give yourself enough time so you are not rushing it. It takes a little practice but the effect is Ultra Glamour!
To Trim the False Eyelashes - Simply lift the false lash off the container gently. Pull them off wiht tweezers evenly and don't let the lash wire get pulled out of shape. Lay the lash on your own lashes up on the lash line in the same angle as your natural lashes.
You will see little knots on the lashes and you can tell if the lash is too long. If it is, count the number of knots from the INSIDE CORNER of the false lash and then take the false lash off your eye. Count the knots again and cut the lash from the inside corner - preserving the natural outer flare of the false lash. Count the knots on the other fasle lash and cut the other false lash the same as the first.
Use Duo Lash Adhesive - it's simply the one to use. Apply a thin strip of lash glue on the top of the lash. Apply a very thin line on the side of the lash that will fit up against your natural lash. Apply a tiny dot of glue on each end on the lash strip.
Close the eye and gently lay the lash onto the lash line - making sure it is sitting at the same angle, as your own lash. Gently press the false lash down and onto the eyeline. Secure both end too by pressing gently on the outside and inside corner of the eye. . If you open your eyes and the glue has glued you eyes or under lashes together - gently peel it off, pull off excess glue and start again. (You used too much glue, use less the second time.)
After you have the lashes on comfortably - go back in with LaFemme Black Matte Cake Eyeliner and touch up your Italian Eyeline. Go over the false lash strip with the black eyeliner so it blends in with the rest of your eye makeup.
Apply a thin light coat of LaFemme Black Cake Mascara - pulling the false eyelashes together with your own lashes. Use a very thin application of the mascara with the Tiny Taklon Fan. Brush the light coat of mascara through the lashes from the underside. Let Dry. Comb out gently with the Metal Lash Comb if necessary..

At the end of every makeup - I touch up on the powder if it's needed. And the cheek color may need to be adjusted after the value of the eyes and lips are established.

Go to the Party and WORK IT GIRLFRIEND!!!!

Happy Holidays and Have Fun!

Best Wishes Always,

Eva Marie

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