Make Up Artist of the Month
Interview
with Gregory Arlt
Make Up Artist
I had a fabulous date with Gregory, after he finished a hectic day doing makeup! Gregory is a freelance makeup artist based in Los Angeles whose focus is in fashion, video, and beauty editorial. He is also a Senior Artist with MAC Cosmetics' Pro Team and has lots of Hollywood beauty scoop. Read on all you makeup maniacs!
How did you start in
the makeup industry?
I
was dragged into it kicking and screaming (in a good way)! I started doing
makeup about ten years ago. I worked at a retail shop in Santa Monica
called Fred Segal. Fred Segal carried a huge range of makeup; it is a
true shopping experience. They asked if I had makeup experience, I said,
YES. I used to tie down my two sisters and practice on them. They had
no choice, neither did their dolls! That's how I started in the makeup
industry.
Did you have an artistic
background growing up?
All
my life! It's in my blood. My father is a graphic designer and a fine
artist. I have always painted from childhood on. While most kids were
out playing ball on the weekends, my Dad set up easels for us in the yard.
We would paint all day long. This was a wonderful experience. I have always
been obsessed with sketching and drawing caricatures. Obsessively as a
child I would draw eyes, lips, and faces. I guess my calling was makeup.
Did you have any formal
makeup training?
I
never went to school for makeup. I did look into makeup schools, but decided
against that route of training. I was more interested in the beauty and
editorial side of the makeup industry. I think schools are great for people
with no artistic background, or people interested in special effects makeup,
TV or film makeup. That's not where my focus is in makeup. I didn't feel
the need to learn how to make someone bald, older, or scraped up.
I just practiced
my craft. I was lucky enough to have a roommate who was a makeup artist.
Her name was Andrea Kessel. She worked in TV, film, and beauty makeup.
We used to have creative night where we would invite people over once
a week for a big makeup party. Andrea helped me get to the next level
with makeup. She was a great teacher!
After working at Fred
Segal, did you begin working with a major cosmetic company?
Yes.
I started working for MAC (Make-Up Art Cosmetics). I have been with MAC
for six years. Fred Segal was an amazing learning experience. It was like
going from elementary school at Fred Segal, then jumping to college graduation
working for MAC.
When did your freelance
makeup career begin?
About
one year after working at Fred Segal I began doing outside freelance work.
Music videos, beauty editorials, testing with photographers, and fashion
layouts with models, were some of the jobs I experienced as a freelance
artist. I did all this while maintaining a full-time job.
What areas of media
do you frequently work in?
TV,
print editorials, music videos, runway, and press releases. I also work
with several hair companies doing their campaigns.
When did you first
discover your interest in MAC?
I
started using MAC cosmetics in the early 90's as a freelance artist. I
used to buy MAC at Nordstrom's and Umberto Hair Salon. One of my friends
at the time worked for MAC and was always begging me to work for MAC.
He said, "you would love it, and they would love you!" As a freelance
artist, the only company I would ever want to work for would be MAC. I
believed in the products, always used, and trusted the products on all
my jobs. In 1993, I decided to take the jump from Fred Segal into MAC.
What
is your daily routine as a freelance makeup artist going on a job?
A
typical day usually starts the night before, which is me inventorying
my kit. I am very obsessive about my kit. The night before I shampoo and
condition my brushes. I lay them all out in front of the heater so they
can dry nicely, and are perfectly clean. I make sure all my supplies are
marked for identification purposes, so I know what is mine. The following
day, I do a final check, making sure I have every last supply necessary.
From tweezers to tissue and see that everything is in its place!
I go to the location,
wherever that might be. I introduce myself to every last person so I know
whom I'm dealing with. I find out who's who, and who's in charge. Sometimes
on these sets there are many chefs in the kitchen and you have to make
sure you're answering to the right person. A normal shoot day might last
six hours but has gone on for eight! I usually listen to upbeat music
on the way to the job to put me in the mood. On the way home, I collapse
and listen to peaceful music. That's a typical day!
When you are booked
for a job, do you meet with the photographer and/or designers to find
out what kind of look they want? Or do you have full creative freedom?
Usually
there is a game plan. I make sure I talk with the photographer at the
shoot to find out what look they want. Most really good photographers
will throw you a scenario. For example, "this is an English rose that
went to Italy for the summer." You can be creative and design the look,
but it is usually planned out. Fashion shows are pretty specific. I meet
with the designer about a month before the shoot. I go over the designs,
look at the clothes, fabric, textures, and the hair so I can get a story
for it. We work together to get the whole look complete. The day of the
show the designer may decide to change something. I always like to be
prepared, so I make sure I pack up all types of makeup colors for backup.
YOU HAVE TO BE PREPARED!!! I like the challenge of things changing last
minute; it keeps me on my feet.
What is a typical rate
you charge a client for makeup services?
Typically,
all rates depend on the overall budget of the project. The typical day
rate for makeup artists right now is between $500 and $700 a day. I know
some makeup agencies pay their artists $750, some $500, it depends where
you are in the agency and with makeup. Average rate is $600 a day for
a seven to eight hour day. Overtime can average $50-$100 dollars an hour.
Do you establish your
rate with a client on a first initial phone call or meeting?
Yes.
I definitely try to work out all the financial details initially. Things
change after the fact depending on budget changes. If my rate changes
due to budget issues, I will adjust the amount of time I spend on the
job if necessary. You have to adjust where and when needed, you have to
get paid what your worth. You have your kit to think about, supplies and
all that comes into play.
What amount of money
will you decline work?
In
the infamous words of Linda Evangelista,"I won't get out of bed for less
than $200 dollars a day." It's just not worth my while. It starts averaging
out less an hour than I make on a typical workday. I try to also consider
competitive rates that makeup artists are making freelancing for cosmetic
companies or on a TV show. You have to be competitive in this industry.
There will always be an exception to the rule based on how amazing the
job is. If there is an opportunity to meet people, make connections, or
a chance to get a unique photo or tearsheet out of it, I would definitely
consider the job!!!
If we took a peek in
your makeup kit what would we see?
My
kit is 99% MAC makeup products. I use MAC like no other. I am really obsessed
with tools. I love Tweezerman products, scissors, and individual lash
curlers. You would see every shade of foundation you could ever hope to
see. Like I said, I like to be prepared, I can't be caught off guard.
What sets you apart
from other makeup artists? Why would I want you to give me a makeover?
My
focus with makeup and ultimate goal is to enhance someone's face in a
way they have never seen before. I don't like to accessorize people. I
like to enhance them. My philosophy towards makeup is to let it come out
of you as opposed to me putting it onto you. I like makeup that makes
sense! I like to bring out someone's real personality with makeup. That
is my favorite part. I don't like people to feel like they have a mask
on, or like a clown. I want my clients to feel ten times more beautiful.
I love people to look in the mirror and say "oh my god, I have never seen
myself look like this before." That to me is the ultimate high, more than
prestige or money.
You would want me
to give you a makeover because I would make you feel good! I appreciate
beauty, that's why I'm in this business. People have something incredibly
beautiful about themselves that they might not acknowledge. It is my job
to let them know what that is. I don't believe in insincerity or pulling
the wool over someone's eyes. I love the face and love beauty. I think
what you would benefit from by sitting in my chair is a lot of honesty
and positive feedback. I also love to teach and educate. I don't want
people to feel like they have to continue coming back to me over and over
again. I want to teach them the basic tools and knowledge to do it themselves.
Give Makeup Mania readers
your best beauty tips.
Less
is more and you are out the door! Most people feel they have to pay attention
to every square inch of their face. Often you should play up a feature
you feel is your best. Don't be afraid to take chances! Most people are
afraid to change their makeup because they feel their face is how others
perceive them. I think people are nervous to go that extra step whether
it is changing a color or texture. The minute you say "frost" people think
your taking them back to Studio 54 in 1970. There are so many things you
can do now.
Give Makeup Mania readers
a "hands on" beauty tip we can do at home.
Moisturize,
moisturize, moisturize! That's all I have to say. Moisturize to the tenth
power! So many people don't do that. Putting foundation on skin not moisturized
is like spilling water in the Sahara. Your makeup is only going to look
as good as your skin. Take care of your skin ladies, and don't ignore
those eyebrows! You want more eyelid space? Get out those tweezers for
an instant eyelift.
What is your advice
to aspiring makeup artists?
Practice,
practice, and practice. Get your friends over to the house and do their
makeup. Look in magazines, see what you love, and see what you hate. Practice
a new technique, that's the only way you're going to learn and get experience.
Look into makeup schools, there are some amazing schools out there that
offer a variety of different services. A lot of cosmetic companies offer
seminars and training on how to do makeup. Educate yourself and really
check things out.
How do you keep up
with all the new trends and styles? How do you incorporate them into your
makeup repertoire?
I
am obsessed with European magazines because they are spot on with trend.
They are forecasting things into the future that we could not even imagine.
I think that American magazines are so safe and not quite as avante guard.
I love looking at fashion in terms of what textures are being used in
clothes and in what colors. Makeup will definitely reflect on that. I
read a lot and also look at young people on the street. Young people are
spot on with trend. I try to take something I've seen, read about, or
heard about and throw my own twist into the overall makeup look. I have
even done makeup based on dreams that I have had. You have to adopt trends
to fit into a person's makeup personality and be versatile.
Being a male in the
makeup industry, how has that been a challenge in a predominately female-based
beauty industry?
If
anything it has actually worked to my advantage, believe it or not! About
98% of the time I hear feedback from women who prefer having men do their
makeup. A lot of wmen say, "I prefer men to do my makeup because men know
what women want, men have a sense of what looks sexy or pretty on us."
In general, makeup should be genderless and to me is an art.
What is the most exciting
or challenging opportunity you have had as a freelance artist?
Two
things, one on a positive note and one on a negative note. I have worked
with some celebrities who are very particular about how they want to look.
I find the biggest challenge is when people are afraid to open their minds
to something different. That is a huge brick wall when you're trying to
work with someone who has done his or her makeup the same way for so many
years. They were told they looked good in that look back when they started
doing their makeup that way. Some are not willing to take that chance
and that's a hard challenge.
Personally, I find
the most challenging and gratifying people to work with are drag queens.
I love working with drag queens because they are not afraid to go over
the top, be garish, and larger than life. Even with drag queens I still
have to make them look beautiful. I can't make them look like clowns.
I love RuPaul, she has the most amazing makeup and look. I think that
is the most challenging/fun thing for me to do. I have a large celebrity
drag clientele. Overall, I have had some great opportunities.
Take a look a Gregory Arlt's fabulous
makeup work
Look at some works by Gregory ArltBack to Vanna in the Valley
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